My LG dishwasher has been leaking water out of the door, leaving a puddle on the floor and threatening to do some serious damage to the hardwoods underneath! After searching on the internet and finding a number of other folks that have the same problem and solutions that all seemed to point to having to buy a new door for it, I decided to do a little reverse engineering and see if I could figure out what was going on. The other common answer for the leaking problem (with the common response being that it doesn’t fix the problem) is a new door gasket. The good news is that I solved my problem for less than $40 using just a phillips screwdriver in about 20 minutes (once I had the part). I hope my solution might help you too.
The door was leaking on the lower left side, filling up half of a small cereal bowl with each cycle. Upon a closer inspection, leak was coming from a plastic attachment which turned out was the venting system for the drying cycle. It didn’t have anything to do with the door gasket at all. The problem was the Vent Fan Motor and Case Assembly (Amazon.com link to the part itself). Here’s a diagram of the door components from Sears Parts Direct. From Sears the part is K110.
Removing the door panel shows the venting system running down the left side of the door and attaching to a casing assembly at the top left.
Taking the door panel off is easy. Open the door and remove the screws from the sides of the door. I suggest that you place something between the door and the floor to support the panels when you remove the screws so as not to bend the metal anywhere. Also one of my readers mentioned to look for 2 hex sheet metal screws on the bottom of the outer door panel (one on each side) that may also need to be removed so as not to bend the panel.
The panel will also have sharp edges, so be as careful not to accidentally cut yourself as you are not to bend it!
Along the inside top edge of the door are four screws, two on each side of the latch area. The two outer screws hold the door panel (you need to remove them to get the panel off). The two inner screws connect the control panel cover and you’ll need to remove these as well, but take the door panel off first. Once you get the panel screws off, the panel will need to slide down slightly (toward the bottom of the door, or back toward the dishwasher if the door is open and horizontal) to come off.
Here’s a closer look at the connections:
The bundle of cords running from the bottom right to the control panel are held in place with a “twisty-tie.” To remove the control panel, you will need to untie the twisty-tie and also disconnect the wires from the casing assembly as seen above. They attach to the small red apparatus on the right side of the casing assembly (this is actually the culprit) as well as to the white apparatus in the middle of the assembly. I used a sharpie to note how the connectors attached.
Here’s a picture of the control panel on the floor.
The casing assembly is attached to the vent and is held in place by the Vent Cover which twists to un-attach the casing assembly. Yes, it’s kind of hard to do because there’s not much to grip with your fingers.
Once the vent cover is removed, the casing assembly will fall off. But at this point, it’s still probably connected to the vent. So gently disengage the casing assembly from the vent. You may want to unscrew the small black screw (toward the bottom right side of the vent chute) holding the vent to the door. That may make it easier to remove the casing assembly.
As best as I can tell, this dishwasher uses a venting system to dry the dishes (which in my experience is only moderately effective). The little red apparatus on the casing assembly activates the seal in the vent cover so that when the wash cycle is engaged the cover is sealed and when the dry cycle starts, the seal is disengaged.
Turns out that the inside of the red apparatus rotted out and the seal was not doing it’s job. The evidence would indicate that when the wash cycle was going, the vent cover was catching water from the sprayer and dripping down the vent and out onto my floor.
At this point, you’ll simply attach the new casing assembly, the one you bought either through my Amazon.com affiliate link, or from Sears PartsDirect: search for part #ABT35083801, or from AppliancePartsPros.com.
Don’t freak out about the black inlet hose. It doesn’t really attach to anything (at the bottom). It’s just set in the bottom right side of the door, next to the foam spacers.
Next, re-connect all electrical connections, the control panel cover and the door and you’re done. Make sure you test it by running through a cycle and watching it to make sure it’s not another problem.
I hope this helped you fix your dishwasher and save a few bucks.
P.S. If your door breaks, like mine did, I can help you fix this too!