Tapered legs for woodworking projects like these end tables add an elegant and refined look. They’re super easy to make using a table saw and a basic, inexpensive jig that you can build in about 20 minutes. In this post I’ll show you how to make your own jig and tapered legs.
Leg Materials
2″ x 2″ wood make idea legs for a variety of projects like end tables, desks, dressers and nightstands and they are readily available in many home improvement stores. Of course, you can use any kind and size of wood that you want for your project. The basic method will be the same.
Video Lesson
Here’s a short video showing how to make the tapers using a jig for those of you who prefer to watch:
The tapered legs illustrated here are made by cutting the leg stock at an angle along 2 of the faces. For these end tables, for example, the legs taper from the top, which is 1 1/2″ square to the bottom which is 3/4″ square
To get perfect angle cuts, make a simple jig out of some scrap lumber, like 2x4s.
Jig Materials Needed
- 2 2x4s at least 24″ long.
- small door hinge
- Knob
- Threaded Insert
- 1/4″ thick piece of scrap wood or a wooden paint stirrer
- Piece of scrap wood to serve as a cleat
- Wood screw
You can usually find knobs and threaded inserts in the specialty fastener section of home improvement stores.
Attach the 2x4s with a hinge at one end. On the other end of the 2×4 that will serve as the angle piece, attach a piece of scrap wood to serve as a cleat. The point of the cleat is to push the stock through the cut so that you can keep your hands clear of the saw blade.
To make the sliding lock mechanism, route a channel through the middle of a strip of 1/4″ thick wood to create a slider. If you don’t have a router, you can use a sharp utility knife and a paint stirrer to cut a channel wide enough for the knob’s screw to easily pass through. Screw one end of the slider to the 2×4 that will run along the saw’s fence.
Using the slider as a guide, mark, then drill a pilot hole for the threaded insert in the middle of the 2×4 that will serve as the angle side. Drill deep enough to allow the knob’s threaded bolt to go all the way in. Install the threaded insert to complete the slide lock.
Measure, Setup and Cutting
To make your cuts, plan to measure, setup and make all cuts for your tapered legs at one time. This will ensure that all of the legs are cut consistently.
In my end table example above, the taper will start 2 1/2″ from the top of the leg. I’m doing that so the leg can be attached flush to the table’s support apron.
Make a mark on 2 adjoining faces where you will make the taper cuts to indicate where the cut will start. With the saw unplugged (do I even need to say that?), set the fence so that the jig and stock to be cut is positioned where the saw blade just meets the mark for your first taper cut. Refer to the video above for a visual.
Next, remove the stock to be cut and slide the taper jig forward to the point where the end of the jig reaches the saw blade. In other words, where the end of the leg will be. Adjust the angle of the jig to the width of the taper end (for example 3/4″).
Double check both measurements again and fine tune the fence and angle as needed. This will take a little getting used to and probably a few adjustments.
Once your fence is set up and the jig is tightened in place, make your first cut. Then turn the leg clockwise one side and make your second cut. The will ensure that the flat side is on the saw deck. Don’s inadvertently cut the 2nd taper with the first taper on the deck since that will mess the whole thing up.
Go ahead and cut all your legs at once so that the cuts are all consistent.
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